Eating My Way Through Lima

Ceviche. Lomo saltado. Pisco. Suspiro. As a self-proclaimed foodie (though it still feels a little strange to call myself that), these were the dishes that kept Peru at the top of my travel list for years.

People who love to eat are always the best people. Don't I agree.

But little did I know that Lima — and Peru as a whole — would come to mean so much more to me than just food. Some places leave a lasting imprint on your story, and Lima will forever be one of them.

It might sound a bit dramatic, but beyond the culinary memories, Lima holds an unexpected, fleeting chapter of my life. I spent a few tense days there, consumed by anxiety, when a diplomatic crisis broke out between my home country and the country I now call home — all while I was on a work trip. Months later, nerves aside, I returned to host the event I had originally come to plan, and it turned out to be a beautiful success.

But back to food — as I joked during what I called my “first exile,” the silver lining was: if I’m going to be stranded, how lucky am I to be stranded in one of the culinary capitals of the world? Time wasn’t exactly on my side, but I did my best to savor every moment (and bite!) that I could.

So, without further ado, here are a few spots that gave me one more reason to always remember Lima:

• La Picantería: A casual, lunch-only spot that came highly recommended — and with good reason. My friends and I waited nearly an hour and a half for a table, but time flew by thanks to the music, drinks, and lively atmosphere.

  
  

  Once seated, we learned how the menu worked: it’s based on the catch of the day, so options are limited and change daily. You choose your fish, then select one of their eight signature preparations.

  
  

  We started with fish empanadas — complimentary and so good we ordered a second basket. Then came a ceviche picantero, scallops, a fried grouper cheek, and an incredible cheese-based dessert. Honestly, it was one of the freshest, most memorable meals I’ve ever had.

  
  
  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  
  
  

• Astrid & Gaston: A Peruvian staple I had long dreamed of visiting — and it did not disappoint. Gastón Acurio, one of the driving forces behind the global recognition of Peruvian cuisine, and his wife Astrid (whom he met while they trained as chefs in Paris) created something truly special that lives in this casa colonial in the San Isidro district.

  
  

  My meal began with their complimentary bread basket — a flavorful showcase of the country's diverse grains. I went bold with the duck tartare to start: rich, but delicious. Still, the true star was the arroz con mariscos Cantolao, topped with leche de tigre foam. Months later, I still catch myself daydreaming about it.

• Gaijin: Tucked in a residential street in San Isidro, this Nikkei spot completely blew me away with the freshness and precision of its dishes. I had the best sushi of my life — the acevichado — I loved it so much, I ordered it twice.

  
  

  A friend who’d lived in Japan even said it was better than what she’d had there. The tacos were also great, and the service was knowledgeable and thoughtful throughout.

  
  
  

  

  

  
  
  

• Carnaval: This cocktail bar surprised me in the best way. Each drink told a story, blending mixology with cultural immersion. The creativity and attention to detail made it an experience, not just a night out. Though my favorite was the margarita, I also enjoyed the cocktails inspired by Peruvian warriors.

• Amoramar: We stumbled upon Amoramar after leaving Carnaval — and what a happy accident it was. I tried sea urchin ceviche for the first time, and it was unforgettable. The dessert? A pistachio tiramisu served inside an espresso maker. Both visually stunning and delicious.

  
  
  

  

• Cala: Cala’s beachfront location is breathtaking. I walked past it one day and knew I had to come back. Though I missed the sunset, I made it for lunch and had a flavorful lomo saltado.I didn’t drink that day, but the cocktail list looked phenomenal — full of flamboyant, signature creations. Pricey, yes, but those views make it worth it.

  
  
  

  
  
  

• La Rosa Nautica: We had our corporate dinner here — a Lima classic, located on a pier with dreamy sunset views. My favorite Pisco in Peru was here, perfectly balanced and smooth. The suspiro limeño? Divine.

  
  
  

  

  

  
  
  

• Panchita: Located in Miraflores, Panchita serves up classic comida criolla in a warm, welcoming setting. The portions were generous — packed with flavor down to the last bite. We had a classic ceviche, but the real standout for me was the chicken causa — creamy, zesty, and unforgettable. I also tried a couple of non-alcoholic drinks made with local fruits like aguaymanto and hierba luisa — refreshing and so unique.

  
  
  

  

  

  
  
  

• Napoleon: This charming French café was just steps from my hotel, and it quickly became a go-to. From coffee to pastries, everything was delightful. My favorite? The matcha — both the classic version and a sweet, strawberry one that was full of flavor.

• La Tapada Dulceria: If you visit Lima’s historic center (and you should!), stop by this cozy café with a terrace perfect for people-watching. Though I only had a refreshing passion fruit juice, I’d return just to explore their selection of traditional Peruvian sweets.

  
  

Peru fed me in more ways than one — through its food, its stories, and its spirit. Grateful for the memories, and hungry for more.