Lisbon Travel Guide: My Long Overdue Return

My first time in Lisbon was back in 2019. It was my very first work trip—I was doing communications for an innovation team, and we were participating in Web Summit, the annual technology event held there. Those six hectic days went by in a whirlwind, most of them spent inside the Altice Arena.

Still, I managed to sneak in a few quiet moments: short walks around our hotel in Chiado, the taste of pastel de nata and vinho verde, and a visit to the Belém Tower—each memory etched in my heart. I remember the wind on my face that early November day, standing before the Tower as if in a déjà vu. It was an awe-inspiring place, one I felt I had already visited in a dream. With so few people around, Portugal felt like a hidden jewel, still waiting to be discovered by the world, or by the people in my world.

26 year old me in Lisbon's Avenida Liberdade

Of course, much has changed. Six years later, Lisbon became of Europe’s most popular destinations, and understandably so: The city sits along the Tagus River, blessed with Mediterranean light and weather, blending Old World architecture and history with a vibrant modern spirit. It’s nearly impossible not to fall for its hills, its viewpoints, its tiles, its tram—and even more so, its food.

Even in summer, even with the crowds, I felt the same awe this year that I back then. Philosophically, I found a kind of sameness I had feared the pandemic might have erased. I had changed plenty, but Lisbon remained unmistakably itself.

So, if you are thinking of visiting, here’s a list I’m thrilled to share—with some of my favorite tips for experiencing the city and falling irrevocably in love with it too.

Stay at:

If you want an unforgettable stay in Lisbon, look no further than Palácio das Especiarias. Staying here was a dream of mine, and it surpassed every expectation.

This restored palace in the high-end Chiado neighborhood makes you feel at home the moment you walk through the door. The service is exceptional—perhaps the best I’ve encountered. The clerks felt like friends, touring guests around the hotel, sharing helpful tips, and making sure every detail of our stay was perfect.

Though not a large hotel, it offers multiple inviting spaces: a study room, a bar where you can sip Portuguese wines while listening to Fado, and my favorite—the terrace. If you’re a lover of history, architecture, and Old World charm, this place will enchant you.

Eat at:

One of the many reasons Portugal is a world-class destination is its food. Lisbon has no shortage of incredible restaurants—these are my top picks:

• Cervejaria Ramiro: A casual but fantastic seafood experience. Ramiro is wildly popular and doesn’t take reservations, so expect to wait outside. But that’s part of the fun—the sidewalk fills with people sipping beer and nibbling on Ibérico ham, creating a lively atmosphere. Once inside, save your appetite for the star dishes: their unforgettable seafood platters.

  
  

• Bairro do Avillez & Cantinho do Avillez: José Avillez is Portugal’s most celebrated chef, with restaurants across the country. Bairro do Avillez offers refined dining (without Belcanto’s sky-high prices), while Cantinho do Avillez is a more casual spot with Portuguese classics and a warm atmosphere. Both are delicious choices.

  
  

• Palácio Chiado: If you want a good meal in a breathtaking setting, this is it. Housed in an 18th-century palace, every corner is stunning—but the golden lion at the bar steals the show. Known for creative cocktails (we tried the Bubblegum and the Palácio Chiado), the food is equally impressive. Highlights for us were the tuna tartare, rigatoni with shrimp tartare and caviar, glazed duck magret with honey and orange, and for dessert, the decadent Mousse “À Barão.”

  
  

• Mensagem: Located inside a hotel dedicated to the writer Fernando Pessoa, Mensagem is minimalist inside, but if you’re lucky enough to sit on the terrace, the views of Lisbon’s hills and the Castelo de São Jorge glittering at night are unforgettable. We loved the duck rice (a Portuguese classic), the salmon, and the tuna tartare.

• Timeout Market: Lisbon’s Time Out Market was the first in the world curated by critics from the magazine, so you can trust that every stall is delicious. It’s perfect for sampling a variety of Portuguese flavors in one place.

  
  

• A Brasileira Café: This historic café is as beautiful as it is iconic, with tributes to Fernando Pessoa sprinkled throughout. A must for coffee lovers.

Visit:

• LX Factory: Once an industrial complex, now a creative hub. LX Factory is full of restaurants, cafes, and shops with a bohemian, artsy vibe. Don’t miss Ler Devagar, a bookstore built inside a former printing press, and More Than Wine, where the souvenirs are the real standout.

  
  

• Belém: This riverfront district is home to some of Lisbon’s most iconic landmarks: the Belém Tower (currently closed for renovations), the Monument to the Discoveries, the Empire Square Garden, and the Jerónimos Monastery. And of course, you can’t leave without stopping at Pastéis de Belém for the original pastel de nata.

• Praça do Comércio: One of Lisbon’s most important squares, facing the Tagus River. It’s surrounded by government buildings, arcades, and cafés—perfect for sitting outside and watching the world go by. If you walk close to the river, you'll also find bars facing the water. They're on the pricier side, but the views are worth it.

  
  

• Avenida da Liberdade: Lisbon’s grand boulevard, lined with luxury boutiques like Miu Miu, Carolina Herrera, and Rosa Clará. Even if you’re not shopping, the leafy sidewalks and Parisian-style architecture make it a beautiful stroll. Portuguese luxury brand JNCQUOI also has two locations here, combining fashion, dining, and nightlife.

Day Trip: Sintra

If you’re a fan of royal history, a trip to Sintra is unmissable. Just 40 minutes from Lisbon by car or train, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a blend of palaces, gardens, and misty forests.

The highlight is the Pena Palace (sadly not named after me!). Considered one of Portugal’s seven wonders, this 19th-century Romanticist castle blends Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, and Neo-Moorish styles, revealed in its bright hues, intricate ornaments, and wealth of arches and tiles. Once a monastery, later a royal summer residence, it now feels like a haven rising out of the clouds.

Inside, you’ll find preserved furniture and décor, but outside is where the magic happens—the colorful terraces and sweeping views will take your breath away. Don’t miss wandering the Arches Yard.

Before heading back to Lisbon, stop by Café Saudade for a well-earned treat—the palace café tends to get very crowded.

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Lisbon may have become busier and more famous since my first trip, but its essence remains the same. For me, Lisbon will forever be a place of wonder.