Roadtrip through Algarve & the Vicentine Coast

One of the places I had long fantasized about visiting in Portugal was the Algarve. I had heard wonderful things about it, and my friends’ pictures spoke for themselves: crystal-clear waters and cliffs that didn’t feel entirely real. At the time, I didn’t know about the Vicentine Coast, but while researching for our trip, I realized it was a very worthy stop.

My boyfriend’s idea was to drive south from Lisbon toward the warmer Mediterranean waters, stopping at different points during the day and sleeping in other cities at night. That’s how we ended up getting a glimpse of six different towns in this region—so varied from one another, despite having the sea in common. And despite their popularity, we were lucky to have almost all the beaches to ourselves.

If you’re looking for ideas, here’s our itinerary and highlights:

Comporta

We made a brief stop in this town, which is part of the Alentejo region, north of the Vicentine Coast. Little did I know that today it’s one of the area’s most coveted destinations, often called the “Portuguese Hamptons.” Nicole Kidman even bought a house there recently, joining other local and international celebrities. While we didn’t go to the beach, we stopped at Almo for coffee and got a sense of the town’s bohemian yet chic energy. The restaurant had minimalist, trendy décor and great drinks. Along that same street were other restaurants with a similarly understated elegance.

Sines

When planning the trip, we didn’t find many lodging options that weren’t extremely expensive, so we stayed in Sines—our first stop on the Vicentine Coast. It’s a popular beach destination, home to an ancient castle and several churches, and also the birthplace of explorer Vasco da Gama.

We booked the AP Hotel, which seemed to be one of the few in town, and it was perfectly fine for a night. We arrived late in the afternoon and barely managed a quick stop at the beach to catch the sunset. As we walked through narrow, winding streets, the sea slowly appeared until we finally faced it in all its pearl-blue greatness and serenity.

Besides the sea, my highlight from Sines was our dinner at Restaurante O Castelo. It was hard to find a place to sit down and eat, but this casual bar had great reviews. And wow—it didn’t disappoint. We had a rich squid-and-shrimp espetada (skewer) and the day's recommended tuna filet. Spectacular.

Porto Covo

We left Sines after breakfast and arrived at Porto Covo’s Praia Grande. Despite being less than 20 minutes away, the difference in vibe was immediately palpable. Porto Covo was reminiscent of Big Sur, with massive cliffs descending into emerald-colored waters.

The beach was small and felt very private. You can rent cabanas and lounge chairs for a fair price, though they only opened at 10 a.m. We arrived early, but other patrons told us we could use them and pay later.

What shocked us most was the sea temperature—it was glacial! So we took quick dips followed by long stretches of sunbathing. It ended up being my favorite beach.

When we got hungry, we stopped by Amar, a café-restaurant just a few steps away.

Besides the incredible view, I had the most flavorful oyster of my life and the freshest fish tacos, paired with a crisp glass of rosé. At that moment, I felt I had it all. My euphoria even drove me to confess a dream, come to terms with it, and—today—I’m working on it: writing a book about my grandmother.

Portimão

That afternoon, we arrived in Portimão, once a small fishing town that trived thanks to the canned fish industry. I have to be honest: this was my least favorite stop of the trip. The beach was far more crowded, with clubs and vendors blasting loud music. The atmosphere was more “lively holiday” than “calm vacation,” which I usually prefer. The town also felt less local and more tourist-driven. However, it must be said that, by being a bigger city, it also has perks, like more places to stay.

We spent two nights on one of the busiest streets, but only had the chance to explore early in the morning or at night, since we were both working. But my main highlight of the city was the food: grilled dourada (gilthead bream) and arroz de tamboril (monkfish rice) at Cantinho Português, plus pastel de nata ice cream at La Gioconda.

Lagos

On our last day in the Algarve, we went to Lagos, which I had been especially excited about. At Praia dos Estudantes, I was blown away by the old bridge (once part of the Pinhão fortress) and the tunnels connecting different parts of the beach. Though not empty, it felt secluded and relaxing. We sat near the cliffs (though I now know that’s risky due to falling rocks) and took short dips in the sea, which was somehow even colder than Porto Covo. Despite how icy it was, I loved the color of the water and massive rocks rising from the surface. We later had coffee at Mar, an inviting restaurant perched above the beach. The service wasn’t stellar, but the view more than made up for it.

For lunch, we drove to Praia da Luz. Along the way, I caught a glimpse of the Ponta da Bandeira fortress and some charming shops on the opposite side of the street—mental note to return.

Our trip couldn’t have ended on a higher note: lunch at Zazu Beach Club, a self-described Mediterranean restaurant with Asian vibes. From the first moment, I loved the ambiance of the place: stunning sea views and boho decor. Nonetheless, the food was the star. We had tuna tartare and a classic spicy tuna roll—fresh, flavorful, and beautifully presented. The highlight, though, was the ceviche. It was an original twist on the Peruvian classic, and the mix of textures, temperatures, and flavors worked wonderfully.

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Beyond the food and the breathtaking stops, I’m deeply grateful for the chance to explore corners of the world so far from my own. In discovering new places, I’ve also uncovered pieces of myself—and that’s always the greatest treasure of travel. Okay, I won’t lie… the food is still a pretty big perk 😉