Porto Essentials: Where to Eat, Drink, and Explore

Last Saturday, I stumbled upon Anthony Bourdain's A Cook's Tour from 2002. In the first season, he visits Porto, and the city of the early aughts struck me as an entirely different one from today’s. It seemed gray, cold, solitary, aged. A striking contrast to the present, when Portugal’s second-largest city appeared to me as a vibrant mix of blue hues, blending azulejo facades, the Douro River, and bustling crowds under the summer sky.

I have to say that, had I watched the show back then, Porto might not have made it to the top of my bucket list. In addition to the city’s gloomy character, the gastronomy-focused episode lingered on bacalhau, and it is not an exaggeration to say that cod is predominant in Portuguese cuisine. But the show also highlighted other dishes like tripas à moda do Porto (quite different from the version found in Aveiro) and others that, to me, seem less common and not nearly as appetizing as what you typically see today.

So with that in mind—and surely I am no Anthony Bourdain—I wanted to finish this Portugal series with my own experience after a two-day trip. Because beyond its cuisine, Porto’s landmarks and character also bring a lot to the table.

Eat:

• Dona Maria ($$$): Located in Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro River, Dona Maria describes itself as a “tribute to Portuguese cuisine.” While its decor is stylish and upscale, its ethos honors grandmothers—the recipes and passion passed down through generations. Dona Maria is a wonderful place to try Portuguese classics in a sleek setting. Their polvo à lagareiro was my favorite octopus of the trip, perfectly cooked. Also memorable was their take on pastel de nata—a deconstructed version of the country’s staple, but so delicious.

• Casario ($$): Perched in the Grand Cruz House with a privileged view of the river, Casario is the perfect setting for a memorable night. This small restaurant combines modern furniture with a rustic stone building, and its balcony offers the best seat in the house. We were lucky to get it: from there, we watched everything unfold—people strolling, the river glimmering, the city lights sparkling across the water. From the start, the food won us over. A simple bread and Azores butter basket was the perfect opener to their small-plate-driven menu. The standout was the lollipop de lula e camarão (squid and shrimp skewer), flavorful and unique. For dessert, the most-ordered dish—a hazelnut biscuit with salted caramel gelato—was delightful.

• Mercado do Bolhão ($): This market is recommended on almost every list, and I quickly understood why. Inside is a world of local vendors, souvenir shops, and food stalls. Like most visitors, we wandered freely, stopping at whatever looked most enticing. We tried rissois (turnovers) in different flavors: wild boar, duck, piglet, and veal. At another stall, Confeitaria do Bolhão (famous on social media for its long lines), sardines dangled overhead while trays of seafood dishes looked so tempting it was hard to choose.

  
  

• Time Out Market ($): Like its Lisbon counterpart, Porto’s Time Out Market doesn’t disappoint. It features local restaurants from acclaimed regional chefs at fair prices. Less hectic and more sit-down than Bolhão, it offers fewer options but all equally solid. We tried Ricardo Costa’s stand—he’s a chef from Aveiro with two Michelin stars for his restaurant in Vila Nova de Gaia. The duck rice croquettes and octopus rice were standouts.

Do:

• Port wine tasting: One of Portugal’s great delicacies is port wine, a sweet fortified wine with origins in the Douro Valley, named after Porto. Tasting it is a quintessential experience. Vila Nova de Gaia is home to the cellars of many renowned houses, like Graham’s and Cálem.

  
  

  We toured the Sandeman cellar, where we learned about both port wine and this 200-year-old brand. The visit ended with a tasting of five varieties, followed by port-based cocktails at the outdoor bar overlooking the Dom Luís I Bridge. My only tip: avoid the last tour of the day so you can linger over the tasting.

• Tuk tuk city tour: Tuk tuks—motorized three-wheelers—are a surprisingly fun way to see Porto. When the weather is hot and you don’t want to be in a car, they’re time- and cost-effective, and guides share all the essentials in your language of choice. Tours typically last about 90 minutes, though we shortened ours to 45 since we had a flight later.

  
  

  Our route began at the Porto Cathedral and passed the Church of São Francisco, the Palácio da Bolsa, the Carmo Church, the Ribeira district, and the Lello Bookstore (famous for inspiring Harry Potter).

  
  

• Try the staples: Don’t leave Porto without sampling pastel de nata, the hearty francesinha, vinho verde, and of course bacalhau in its many preparations (I’m partial to the pastéis de bacalhau, or cod croquettes).

See:

Last, but certainly not least, further spots you cannot miss are:

• São Bento Station: A National Monument in the city center, famous for its grand azulejo panels depicting life across Portugal.

• Foz do Douro: A seaside neighborhood with sweeping views, beaches, and a calmer, posh vibe with many restaurants and boutiques. The Amelia café is a good breakfast spot, and it's pet friendly!

  
  

• Chapel of Souls: A stunning chapel covered in azulejos, located on Santa Catarina Street near Mercado do Bolhão.

In the end, I think Anthony Bourdain wasn’t wrong: Porto is steeped in old-world charm, cultural richness, tradition, and that rare feeling of being welcomed as if you were part of the family.